Yo Mama! I need your helpz! See the pattern above where the yoke is the same pattern piece as the sleeve??? I am having an issue with a similar construction! Mine doesn't have a collar, and the yoke is square on front and back. Also my front neckline is V shaped. But the construction is the same.....
Imagine, if you will, the front yoke, sleeve, and the back yoke are ALL ONE PIECE! The shoulder center has a dart the forms what would normally be the shoulder seam. The dart releases at the apex of the sleeve cap.
I just made a test fit of a early 50s pattern with this design, and while it fits well everywhere else, the sleeves are WAY TOO TIGHT! I dealt with this by adding slits up the sleeves, so I can wear the muslin.
But I need to fix this!
I already slashed and spread all along the sleeve as much as I could. I got about 2.5 inches with this method. The problem here is the usual slash and spread down the sleeve center is not possible because the yoke is attached! Spreading the sleeve causes the neckline to decrease. Oy vey!!!
What should I do? Ideas?
1. Can I cut straight up the center of the sleeve through the shoulder dart, then spread to add my sleeve width? I would then have a bigger shoulder dart? I am afraid doing this will drop the yoke too much.
2. Can I just drop the arm scythe? It's high right now. Maybe get more room that way, but possibly not in the right places....hmmmm
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4 comments:
the design looks really cool! :)
what a pain! My first thought was to go with option #1. Maybe try it in muslin and see what it does to the yoke? Hope that works!!!
What about adding the extra width you need straight across the sleeve/yoke combo, both in the front and the back. I'm imagining this piece laid out flat with the hole for the neck in the middle. Then redrawing the neckline.
OR, still with it laid out flat, add the extra inches you need for the sleeve just in the sleeve, and then leave the yoke part as is. It would no longer be straight across, so the armscye would have to be adjusted, but everything else would (should?) stay the same.
@Elle...very good thought!
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