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Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Wearable Muslin: The Adorable Complicated 50s Dress!

In my previous post, I bitched a tad about the fit on this dress. I still am working out how I can add 3.5 inches to the sleeves on this crazy pattern.




The pattern I am borrowing from the lovely Raven (a collector and seamstress). It's a 50 bust! I set it on top of my sloper and just saw I just needed to add a bit to the side seams to make this fit! I also had to drop the waist an inch. I did a small amount of slash and spread on the sleeves, but really cant get enough width because of the design.

number 2 there is the front and back yoke and sleeves in one piece


Here is a wearable muslin on the bodice. The skirt portion is from another dress I made. I just cut it off that dress and sewed it to this bodice.
It's windy, the dress actually lays nicer than this. I wore it to work!
Everything on the bodice fits quite well except the arms. Too tight. To fix this in the muslin I created slits in the sleeves to allow for my arms to move. I want to fix this a better way before I make the dress officially.
This is my ghetto arm fix.
You can see exactly where it hangs up on my bicep
here is the original pattern, I cut it to make short sleeves
this is my modified sleeve pattern, the neck is untouched. I did slash and spread on the sleeve bottoms to add width, but it's not enough...
This is actually the 3.5 inches I need in my sleeves for comfort.


I typically modify all my sleeves using this method. It works perfect every time. I need a 21 or 22 inch measurement for upper arm. Most patterns come with about 19 inches. You can imagine that you can't do that here because that would spread the entire yoke. I just need room in the bicep area.

So the last pic gave me an idea. If you can tell, I just cut right through the shoulder dart and spread. I think I can just go back and draw the dart back in with the same center and end points, and that will make my neck stay the same. The dart will be bigger and take up all the extra fabric I added to the shoulder, and leave it in the sleeves.

What do you think?

UPDATE; YAY I JUST TRIED THE ABOVE METHOD AND IT WORKED! 

14 comments:

Renee said...

you look adorable

Misfits Vintage said...

OMG you are so clever darling! I actually really like the split sleeve with the red edging but I can't wait to see what you do next. You inspire me to start sewing... you know, in my other life, where I actually have time!

Sarah xxx

Karen in VA said...

I love the "fix" on the sleeve - it's a great design element!!! I think I have this pattern..hmmm..one of these days I'll have time to sew again..

Pammie said...

Very very cute; seriously! I love it - and Wow! Can you whip up some dresses in no time. I need your eye for fabrics and efficiency!

Elle said...

Yay! So glad you found a solution. It was kind of hard to give advice without seeing the pattern piece, and to be honest it was NOTHING like what I was picturing. I did have an epiphany about the bigger dart later on. :)

Christina said...

It turned out beautifully! I think the fix on the sleeves looks great and purposeful. Great job as usual!

Kitty said...

THATS THE MUSLIN???? Looks awesome to me! I really like the split sleeve, the red edging is lovely.xx.

Vix said...

You are a total genius, I bow to your fabulousness. x

Raven said...

Glad you got that pattern to work for you. when I did my muslin mock up, I almost killed the pattern for lack of good instructions on the whole yoke sleeve thing. Looks amazing! good thing you're such a clever kitten.

Kally said...

I like the edged slit! Can't wait to see the next version. Is it a Patt-O-Rama pattern? I just bought one with a vary similar picture on the instructions.

I find 1950s patterns to have a lot of ease everywhere except the arms - I usually find myself narrowing shoulders and reducing underbusts on them.

retrorevival.biz said...

Clever girl! Your dress is lovely and I love the arms! The bias is really cute:)

~Cindy

La Dama said...

ooo, I love the sleeve slit.
You are like Dr. Frankestein of Dresses.

kmbyrne27 said...

Okay I have to have this pattern!!! How do I get it?? I really need it!! :))

Psycho Sue- Sew Misunderstood said...

I actually borrowed it from a reader! It's not mine!

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